Following the Waterways in Eyüp: Mağlova and Kovuk Arches

In the last week of August, as Istanbul slowly prepares for autumn, the worn stone roads of Eyüp Sultan's whisper a different story. Far from the city's crowds, the arches standing in the Alibeyköy valleys breathe as if they were veins that quenched the thirst of thousands of Istanbulite's. These structures are not merely stone and lime; they are silent witnesses to the greatest engineering project of the 16th century.

The Mağlova Arch, the beating heart of the Kırkçeşme waterways, is the result of Mimar Sinan's bold experiment also known as the “Muallak Arch”. Spanning the bottom of a deep valley with a single massive arch was almost impossible in that era; however, Sinan calculated the ground's slipperiness, set the foundations on the rock, and left his mark on history. The sound of the stream flowing beneath today still echoes the engineering brilliance of those days.

The nearby Eğri Arch and Kovuk Arch showcase Sinan's practical ingenuity against the challenges of the terrain. The Eğri Arch takes a curved form to conform to the valley’s bends; the Kovuk Arch, with its hollow interior, saved material and provided seismic flexibility. The presence of these three arches together evokes a marvel of water engineering.

Starting at the Mağlova Arch, considered the heart of this historic irrigation network, and disappearing into the valley’s greenery is the best way to understand Istanbul's water culture. The marks of the craftsmen still visible on the stones convey the building’s spirit.